K&H Heated Resting Mat for Small Animals, 9 By 12 Inches

This is the perfect heating pad for small animals. Constructed of rugged ABS plastic with a steel wrapped cord, the Small Animal Pad has an internal thermostat keeps the temperature at a desirable 100 degrees when in use. For indoor or outdoor use. UL listed. Shop here

Peter Rabbit Organics 100% Pure Baby Food Variety Pack of 10

Peter Rabbit Organics 100% Pure Baby Food Variety Pack of 10, Contains 2 (4.4 Oz Pouches) Of Each Flavor, Flavors Included: Pea Spinach & Apple, Mango Banana & Orange, Carrot Squash & Apple, Pumpkin Carrot & Apple, and Strawberry & Banana. Certified USDA Organic and No Added Salt or Sugar. BPA Free Packaging!  Shop here

BABY RABBIT FOOD

By: David Sherwood

Baby rabbits are healthier and grow faster with a specially designed baby rabbit food that is high in fat and fiber. In fact, baby rabbits are accustomed to the doe's milk that is high in fat and low in sugar (Coates et. al. 1964).

Baby rabbits don't produce enough enzymes needed to digest excess starch (sugar) until later in life. Feeding baby rabbits a diet with a lot of grain or grain by-products makes them more likely to get diarrhea. A rabbit feed higher in fat and lower in carbohydrates helps baby bunnies make the switch from the doe's milk at weaning and provides the energy they need for healthy growth.

As baby bunnies get older they still naturally use fat as an energy source. In fact, rabbits need a high fiber diet because good bacteria ferment fiber in the caecum to produce the healthy fats rabbits use.

Scientific studies show that increasing the fat content of rabbit food will improve protein AND energy efficiency as well as improve the feed conversion ratio (easily by 20%) for growing rabbits (Arrington et. al.1974).

Most commercial rabbit feeds don't have near enough fat and fall short of the needs of baby bunnies. Generally, they have less than 3% crude fat when research shows that baby rabbit food should have around 8% fat when balanced with high quality protein.

If you choose a healthy rabbit food that has a higher fat content for your growing bunny rabbits then make sure it is using oil from natural sources and not simply refined vegetable oil or worse, rendered animal fat. This is because when adding fat to a rabbit's diet you should also be adding vitamin E, which whole oil seeds from plants naturally have.

• Whole oil seeds are naturally high in vitamin E.

• Rendered animal fat or refined vegetable oils ARE NOT!

Baby rabbits are healthier when fed a high fat natural baby rabbit food that mimics their mamma's milk.

Arrington, L.R., J.K. Platt, and D.E. Franke 1974. Fat Utilization by Rabbits. Journalof Animal Science 38:76-80.

Coates, M.E., MargretE. Gregory, and S.Y. Thompson 1964. The Composition of Rabbit's Milk. British Journal of Nutrition 18:583-586

About the Author

David Sherwood has grown up raising rabbits for fun and profit. His advanced academic and real world experience have given him extensive knowledge that will help you understand and solve many of the problems that face those who raise rabbits. To learn more about his qualifications and to get 'common sense' answers to rabbit questions, go to http://naturalrabbitfood.com
To learn more about the importance of using a balanced natural rabbit food and to see it's unique and proven formulation (now commercially available), go to: http://naturalrabbitfood.com/baby-rabbit-food/

HOW TO KNOW IF YOUR RABBIT IS OVERHEATED AND HOW TO COOL HIM

By: Adam Greenburg

Because of their fur, rabbits get hot easily. This is especially so during summertime when the air is hotter. It can become so hot that a lot of rabbits get sick. To prevent this from happening, the rabbit cage should be placed somewhere cool and they should be given plenty of fresh cool water.

Having air conditioning is an advantage but if this is not available, cool air can be provided through the use of an electric fan. If there are no signs that the rabbits have cooled down, then it is better to have them checked by a doctor. Watch out for the following signs of overheating in your rabbits.

Taking the rabbit's temperature by using a thermometer is still the best way to know if the rabbit is overheated. It is easy to use and you can always ask instructions from your veterinarian if you encounter problems in using a thermometer. You will need another person to hold the rabbit while you take the temperature by inserting the thermometer one inch into the rabbit's rectal area.

Thermometers made of glass usually need to be left inside the rectum for a minute while a digital thermometer takes much lesser time. A digital thermometer is better to use because it is safer and easier to handle. Remember that the normal rectal temperature of rabbits is 100 degrees Fahrenheit and if goes beyond that then your rabbit is experiencing too much heat and should be taken to the doctor.

By watching your rabbit carefully, you can see whether he is overheated or not. If he experiences difficulty in breathing and tilts his head, then he is feeling very hot and must be cared for and given medication immediately.

You need to alleviate your rabbit's condition before transporting him to the animal clinic because air inside the car is hotter and will add to the rabbit's misery. Pat his ears with a wet cool cloth and sprinkle him with a little amount of water without drenching him.

For a gravely ill and severely overheated rabbit, a cool bath is suitable but do not submerge him completely into the water. Be very careful in handling the rabbit because he is probably in pain and too much difficulty. Your immediate and proper emergency care can mean a lot to the survival of your rabbit that is suffering from overheating.

About the Author

To find a suitable rabbit cage for your pet rabbit, visit The Rabbit Hutch Blog for quality rabbit hutches and homes and also more tips on keeping rabbits.

BREEDING RABBIT TIPS

By: Brandon Lucero

Breeding rabbits is a very fun hobby and some even do it as a business, job, or career. You can profit from and there are many reasons to breed rabbits. You can breed them for profit, meat, fun, money, or hobby. Whatever your reason there are always guidelines you should follow and you should always put the rabbit's safety first. You want to be responsible about it and take care of the rabbits because the healthier they are the better outcome you get. You should always find a good guide or book on how to breed rabbits if this is your first time, a good resource is www.BreedingRabbits.net [http://www.breedingrabbits.net]. They have some guides, and a lot of tips for breeding rabbits successfully.

The first tip to breeding rabbits successfully is feeding them the appropriate food. You always want to take care of you doe and feed her properly because she is the one raising the babies. If she is eating bad food the babies can develop some birth defects and her milk may not be filled with the proper nutrients that the babies will need in order to survive after birth. It is best to find a guide or ebook that will cover the proper food for the breeding process.

Another tip is to bring the doe to the buck when starting the breeding process. Doe's can get pretty protective of their homes and they may hiss and become aggressive when the buck arrives. The buck should just be around for the breeding process and then separated from the doe. They do not need very much time to breed.

You should also keep the doe's cage or hutch very clean. You want to eliminate any chance of your doe becoming sick. A sick doe can lead to the death of your baby rabbits or to the mother rabbit herself. A clean environment gives your rabbits the best chances of survival and the best chance to remain healthy. This means making sure they have clean water, you clean up their dirty cage items such as feces, and urine.

These are just some tips to help you along your way of breeding rabbits and bunnies, but this is by no means a complete guide on what you need to do to raise and be successful at breeding rabbits. In order to raise and breed rabbits you should get a guide or eBook that will cover all subjects and processes.

About the Author

You can find excellent information, guides, and ebooks on Breeding Rabbits at www.breedingrabbits.net

Dwarf Bunny Information

By Derrick Anderson

Depending on which survey or numbers you look at, the Dwarf bunny is either the third or forth most popular pet in the United States. The are adorable little animals that can be a lot of fun to have around. Here we will go over what it's like to have them as pets.


These bunnies are usually pretty quiet and reserved, though, they will growl if they are getting angry. They, also, squeal when they get frightened. I say they are "usually" quiet because they will get into moods where they make a lot of noise.

Dwarf bunnies make great pets and most owners keep them inside with them. These animals, really, enjoy the company of other dwarf bunnies so you should consider getting at least 2 of them. They will, most likely, do everything together. They don't need a huge cage to live in but floor space of at least 4 square feet per rabbit is recommended.


Their diet includes a lot of vegetables and fruits. They should, also, have access to some hay as a supplement. If their diet includes a lot of green vegetables they will not drink very much water. This is normal behavior. They will, also, eat some of their own feces. This is normal behavior, as well. The soft version of their excrement is full of water and microorganisms that contribute to their overall health. You will still have to clean the hard type of feces out of their cages.

These pets should be allowed around 4 hours outside of their cage on a daily basis. This time is for exercise and play, as well as bonding with you. At first, you will want to open their cage and let them come out to you. If you reach in and grab them and try to hold them you might get scratched. They will be much more open to your attention if you allow them to come to you at their own pace.

Timothy Hay: A Treat that Provides Major Health Benefits to Small Pets

By Stephanie

What is Timothy Hay?

Timothy Hay is a natural perennial grass that is native to Europe. It can be cut and dried in late in the season, and it is high in fibre and low in protein and calcium. It is recommended amongst vets as one of the best bays to feed small animals and pets, and should be an integral part of the diet of rabbits and guinea pigs in particular.


Timothy  Hay promotes a natural chewing behaviours and helps to wear down cheek teeth, which over time have evolved to grown continuously in small herbivores, because of the large amount of grinding down they do when chewing their food. The consumption of this hay encourages and helps to maintain good dental practice in your small pet.

It's beneficial for their gut


It is great for the intestinal tract of most small pets due to the high fibre content, it reduces the risk of soft stools and helps to prevent bloating, stimulates the digestive system which then helps to prevent obesity. It also helps to maintain a good balance in the urinary system

How much should I feed them?

Timothy Hay can be feed freely and should be available to your pet at all times. It can also make the animal's environment warmer and it allows the guinea pigs to imitate their natural habitat but encouraging foraging, this provides metal stimulation. Timothy Hay should be the main diet of your pet, fresh vegetables and pelleted food should also be available alongside it.


Timothy Hay is so versatile and you can conveniently offer it as treat, use it as a dental aid or you can provide it as a main source of food for your pet without being concerned about weight gain. It's important to follow you vet's advice when it comes down to the dietary requirements of your pet, and if you're unsure about any type of food to feed your pet, you're always better off feeding them something that you'know won't do any harm to their stomachs, don't hesitate to ask your vet, that's what they're there for.

Burgess Pet Care introduce the Excel Feeding Plan, which is a step by step guide to feeding you Fibrevores. The Excel Feeding Plan recommends that you include a premium quality Timothy hay in their diet. Visit http://www.burgesspetcare.co.uk for more information today.

Basic Rabbit Health Consideration

How to Give Meditations to a Rabbit

How to Get Two Rabbits to Become Friends

How to Select Rabbit Cage

Some Different Styles of Rabbit Cages

By: Tim Bell

Rabbits are clean animals and they enjoy being litter-trained; therefore, they are quite happy to live in rabbit cages which keep them safe and comfortable. There are many styles of prefabricated or do-it-yourself cages to choose from according to your preferences and needs. Well made, indoor and large outdoor cages or pens will help your pet live a happy, healthy life. 

The first and most important factor to consider with any type of cage is, however, that the size ought to correspond proportionally to the size of the bunny. It is recommended that the cage be at least four times as big as your rabbit. A 36" x 36" cage, with a height of 24" to 36", ought to be sufficient to accommodate a single rabbit weighing over 8 pounds. 

Any style of cage with a height of at least 24" could accommodate within it a second-story loft with a ramp. This type of cage, as well as those without a loft and only one story high, would benefit from having a ramp which leads from the exit-way allowing your pet to come and go leisurely from their little haven. It is for this specific reason that a cage with a side-door is recommended over one with a top door. 

Your cage should have a secure locking device to ensure that it remains tightly closed, especially in the case of side doors. Otherwise, it would be unfortunate if the little furry guy or gal squeezed through, burrowed out, or got stuck in the doorway when no one was around to catch it or help it out of its dilemma! 

A cage with a larger doorway on the side is preferable over a smaller one one so as to facilitate easy removal of a litter pan. And as previously mentioned, the rabbit can then get itself in and out easily without your help. Since the best cages are made of wire, it would be in your best interest, and that of your rabbit's, to ensure that the all side-door frames are smoothly covered to prevent injuries and deter rabbit-chewing. 

A style of cage with wood flooring instead of wire would be cozier for your pet so its paws and skin do not become irritated. If treated with a non-toxic substance and fitted tightly against the sides of the cage, wood flooring would be safe for bunny, impossible to chew and easy to remove for cleaning. A soft layer of hay covering an easy-clean floor would be appreciated by your rabbit and the cleanliness of the cage would be simple to maintain. 

Hay will stay fresh, soft and dry if there is a litter box available for your pet and if the hay-bed is replaced at least weekly. You can simply brush the old hay from the wood, wipe the floor clean using non-toxic cleaners and reduce your cleaning time while simultaneously making this style almost self-cleaning - you will be as happy as your pet! 

Outdoor types of cages can be constructed or prefabricated just as easily as indoor ones. A well-covered, secure, outdoor playpen area would be appreciated by your pet, but don't forget to be sure that you have laid down an indestructible floor underneath it - as rabbits love to burrow and chew. 

Bad weather and predators such as cats, dogs, hawks, etc. Will not be able to harm your pet in its safe, outdoor cage. In addition to the indoor styles mentioned earlier, an outdoor cage modeled with a bit of sophistication would sport a water-proof, covered top. If this cover allowed light in as well, your bunny would love to being out of doors while you are away during the workday provided it will be shielded from the blazing sun. It will also enjoy sleeping in its protected environment all night long. 

The range of styles of rabbit cages is much larger than one would think. Given that wide selection, however, just a as with humans, the cleaner and safer rabbit cages are, the happier the rabbit.

About The Author

If you are looking for more information on rabbit cages then be sure to check out TW Bell's site. TW Bell has been involved in the animal business for two decades. Stop by to see our rabbit hutches to see if they work for your home.

The author invites you to visit: http://www.rabbitcavy.com

10 Rabbit Behaviour Problems Solved

An excellent book for those who are experiencing specific problems when caring for their rabbits. Goes into enough detail to try and ensure that a rabbit owner when new to rabbits or experienced understands why they need to change their way of managing their rabbits or their way of thinking about the problem which exists.

A good read for anyone new to rabbits or those who have had rabbits for a while who want to understand why problems do occur and the best way of managing these problems.--jrn1310   Shop here

House Rabbit: Expert Series (Small Animals Expert Series)

'House Rabbit' is an interesting book with some practical information about keeping rabbits at home. There are chapters on the history of rabbits, rabbit care, feeding, behaviour, shows, breeds, reproduction and health of rabbits. House rabbit owners may find themselves dipping into 'House Rabbit' from time to time. Anybody considering whether to keep rabbits at home will also find the book useful.--Mr. R Pudsey  Shop here

Care for your Rabbit (RSPCA Pet Guide)

Published in association with the RSPCA, the UK’s leading animal welfare charity, this practical family guide is full of expert advice on how to choose a rabbit and how best to look after it.

If you already own or are planning to buy a rabbit this easy-to-use introductory guide is a must. Clearly illustrated with colour photographs throughout, it covers all aspects of daily care including housing, feeding, handling, hygiene, grooming, exercise and first aid.
Published in association with the experts at the RSPCA, this book will help you ensure that you are giving your rabbit the best possible care. Shop here

Lop Rabbits as Pets

Sandy Crook's book , Lop Rabbits as Pets, is a wonderful book devoted solely to the interests of lop rabbit owners, but any rabbit owner will appreciate the information provided on rabbit care and housing, as well as the many beautiful pictures that are displayed throughout the book.
One part of the book that I especially commend Sandy Crook on is her focus on lop rabbits (and I assume rabbits in general), as Pet Therapy pets. That is a wonderful idea, and more books should focus on that.

The lop rabbit breed descriptions are given along with the brief histories of the breeds, and as I mentioned, the pictures are just wonderful.


This book is a must for any and all lop eared rabbit enthusiasts, and most rabbit owners will appreciate the care tips and other information provided.--CorgiBuddy@aol.com  Shop here

The Bunny Lover's Complete Guide To House Rabbits: The Ultimate Handbook for Successfully Living Indoors with a Pet Rabbit

If rabbits could write a book to tell us how to care for them, this would be the book they'd write. This book is so full of facts that every bunny parent should know, as well as tons of pictures. All of the descriptions have pictures with them to completely detail the point. This is a must-have for any rabbit parent, both novice and experienced. The author's perspective and keen sense and understanding of what his own rabbits' behaviors mean is excellent. I had my first house rabbit 24 years ago, and still, I learned so much from this book. I did not intend to read it cover-to-cover, but I could not put the book down. This is a great book for reading cover-to-cover, as well as a reference book complete with an index. This books gets 2 paws up (and 5 stars).--S Elderkin  Shop here

Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits, 4th Edition

Everyone who owns and cares for rabbits will benefit from Bob Bennett's practical guidance and comprehensive care instructions. Solid advice on breed selection, year-round care and feeding, and safe housing and sanitation help every owner -- from the commercial producer to the dedicated fancier -- raise happy, healthy rabbits.

This revised and updated fourth edition includes:

* Breed photographs

* Building plans for safe, comfortable housing

* Coverage of disease prevention and treatment

* Humane handling techniques

* Guidelines for showing

* Marketing and sales tips 

Shop here

Alfalfa Hay For Small Animals

By: Stepphanie

 Photo by: bronzephoenix

 
Alfalfa hay is legume hay that contains more protein, digestible energy and calcium than any other forage. This hay is perfect for young herbivores and makes a perfect treat for adult herbivores.

Alfalfa Hay is a high fibre hay is a high fibre legume forage that is sometimes called the "Queen of Forages" It's different from timothy hay in its leaf, stem and root structure. Alfalfa hay is legume hay and the protein, calcium and content are higher than in grass hay. Because it is bailed at night, special care is taken. Alfalfa hay has a soft stem with leaves attached.

Alfalfa is a perfect hay to feed young animals. It contains a lot more crude protein, digestible energy and calcium levels than most other forages, also it has the fibre content needed for normal digestive functioning. Alfalfa provides the right amount of essential calcium for growing bones. Alfalfa is also a source of important materials, including phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, sulphur, iron, zinc, and selenium.

Because of its succulent taste, this alfalfa hay can be used as an appetite stimulant when an animal happens to be ill or coming out of surgery, because it is so high in fibre, a small pinch can be given as a treat.

Feeding Directions:

Growing animals (Under the age of 6 months):

Unlimited amounts plus free choice of grass hay

Alfalfa hay should only really be offered carefully to adult rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas due to the higher protein and calcium content. Many vets believe that animals prone to kidney stones, bladder stones or calcium crystals in their urine should always avoid alfalfa hay.

-Alfalfa hay can be used to help animals to gain wait, and will give a nice shine to their fur.

-Elderly animals should be fed foods that they enjoy, such as alfalfa, when considering quality of life.

-Alfalfa Hay can be used in small amounts as an appetite stimulant for thin or convalescing animals.

-Rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas under six months of age can be given alfalfa hay daily.

-After six months of age an animal should begin a gradual transition to 100% grass hays such as Timothy Hay

Burgess pet care advise that most of your small animals diet should consist of a high quality Alfalfa hay. Visit http://www.burgesspetcare.co.uk/ for more information today

Compare Between Rabbit Age and Human Age