Monday, December 10, 2012

Basic Rabbit Health Consideration

How to Give Meditations to a Rabbit

How to Get Two Rabbits to Become Friends

How to Select Rabbit Cage

Some Different Styles of Rabbit Cages

By: Tim Bell

Rabbits are clean animals and they enjoy being litter-trained; therefore, they are quite happy to live in rabbit cages which keep them safe and comfortable. There are many styles of prefabricated or do-it-yourself cages to choose from according to your preferences and needs. Well made, indoor and large outdoor cages or pens will help your pet live a happy, healthy life. 

The first and most important factor to consider with any type of cage is, however, that the size ought to correspond proportionally to the size of the bunny. It is recommended that the cage be at least four times as big as your rabbit. A 36" x 36" cage, with a height of 24" to 36", ought to be sufficient to accommodate a single rabbit weighing over 8 pounds. 

Any style of cage with a height of at least 24" could accommodate within it a second-story loft with a ramp. This type of cage, as well as those without a loft and only one story high, would benefit from having a ramp which leads from the exit-way allowing your pet to come and go leisurely from their little haven. It is for this specific reason that a cage with a side-door is recommended over one with a top door. 

Your cage should have a secure locking device to ensure that it remains tightly closed, especially in the case of side doors. Otherwise, it would be unfortunate if the little furry guy or gal squeezed through, burrowed out, or got stuck in the doorway when no one was around to catch it or help it out of its dilemma! 

A cage with a larger doorway on the side is preferable over a smaller one one so as to facilitate easy removal of a litter pan. And as previously mentioned, the rabbit can then get itself in and out easily without your help. Since the best cages are made of wire, it would be in your best interest, and that of your rabbit's, to ensure that the all side-door frames are smoothly covered to prevent injuries and deter rabbit-chewing. 

A style of cage with wood flooring instead of wire would be cozier for your pet so its paws and skin do not become irritated. If treated with a non-toxic substance and fitted tightly against the sides of the cage, wood flooring would be safe for bunny, impossible to chew and easy to remove for cleaning. A soft layer of hay covering an easy-clean floor would be appreciated by your rabbit and the cleanliness of the cage would be simple to maintain. 

Hay will stay fresh, soft and dry if there is a litter box available for your pet and if the hay-bed is replaced at least weekly. You can simply brush the old hay from the wood, wipe the floor clean using non-toxic cleaners and reduce your cleaning time while simultaneously making this style almost self-cleaning - you will be as happy as your pet! 

Outdoor types of cages can be constructed or prefabricated just as easily as indoor ones. A well-covered, secure, outdoor playpen area would be appreciated by your pet, but don't forget to be sure that you have laid down an indestructible floor underneath it - as rabbits love to burrow and chew. 

Bad weather and predators such as cats, dogs, hawks, etc. Will not be able to harm your pet in its safe, outdoor cage. In addition to the indoor styles mentioned earlier, an outdoor cage modeled with a bit of sophistication would sport a water-proof, covered top. If this cover allowed light in as well, your bunny would love to being out of doors while you are away during the workday provided it will be shielded from the blazing sun. It will also enjoy sleeping in its protected environment all night long. 

The range of styles of rabbit cages is much larger than one would think. Given that wide selection, however, just a as with humans, the cleaner and safer rabbit cages are, the happier the rabbit.

About The Author
If you are looking for more information on rabbit cages then be sure to check out TW Bell's site. TW Bell has been involved in the animal business for two decades. Stop by to see our rabbit hutches to see if they work for your home.
The author invites you to visit:

Sunday, November 18, 2012

10 Rabbit Behaviour Problems Solved

An excellent book for those who are experiencing specific problems when caring for their rabbits. Goes into enough detail to try and ensure that a rabbit owner when new to rabbits or experienced understands why they need to change their way of managing their rabbits or their way of thinking about the problem which exists.

A good read for anyone new to rabbits or those who have had rabbits for a while who want to understand why problems do occur and the best way of managing these problems.--jrn1310   Shop here

House Rabbit: Expert Series (Small Animals Expert Series)

'House Rabbit' is an interesting book with some practical information about keeping rabbits at home. There are chapters on the history of rabbits, rabbit care, feeding, behaviour, shows, breeds, reproduction and health of rabbits. House rabbit owners may find themselves dipping into 'House Rabbit' from time to time. Anybody considering whether to keep rabbits at home will also find the book useful.--Mr. R Pudsey  Shop here

Care for your Rabbit (RSPCA Pet Guide)

Published in association with the RSPCA, the UK’s leading animal welfare charity, this practical family guide is full of expert advice on how to choose a rabbit and how best to look after it.

If you already own or are planning to buy a rabbit this easy-to-use introductory guide is a must. Clearly illustrated with colour photographs throughout, it covers all aspects of daily care including housing, feeding, handling, hygiene, grooming, exercise and first aid.
Published in association with the experts at the RSPCA, this book will help you ensure that you are giving your rabbit the best possible care. Shop here

Lop Rabbits as Pets

Sandy Crook's book , Lop Rabbits as Pets, is a wonderful book devoted solely to the interests of lop rabbit owners, but any rabbit owner will appreciate the information provided on rabbit care and housing, as well as the many beautiful pictures that are displayed throughout the book.
One part of the book that I especially commend Sandy Crook on is her focus on lop rabbits (and I assume rabbits in general), as Pet Therapy pets. That is a wonderful idea, and more books should focus on that.

The lop rabbit breed descriptions are given along with the brief histories of the breeds, and as I mentioned, the pictures are just wonderful.

This book is a must for any and all lop eared rabbit enthusiasts, and most rabbit owners will appreciate the care tips and other information  Shop here

The Bunny Lover's Complete Guide To House Rabbits: The Ultimate Handbook for Successfully Living Indoors with a Pet Rabbit

If rabbits could write a book to tell us how to care for them, this would be the book they'd write. This book is so full of facts that every bunny parent should know, as well as tons of pictures. All of the descriptions have pictures with them to completely detail the point. This is a must-have for any rabbit parent, both novice and experienced. The author's perspective and keen sense and understanding of what his own rabbits' behaviors mean is excellent. I had my first house rabbit 24 years ago, and still, I learned so much from this book. I did not intend to read it cover-to-cover, but I could not put the book down. This is a great book for reading cover-to-cover, as well as a reference book complete with an index. This books gets 2 paws up (and 5 stars).--S Elderkin  Shop here

Storey's Guide to Raising Rabbits, 4th Edition

Everyone who owns and cares for rabbits will benefit from Bob Bennett's practical guidance and comprehensive care instructions. Solid advice on breed selection, year-round care and feeding, and safe housing and sanitation help every owner -- from the commercial producer to the dedicated fancier -- raise happy, healthy rabbits.

This revised and updated fourth edition includes:
* Breed photographs
* Building plans for safe, comfortable housing
* Coverage of disease prevention and treatment
* Humane handling techniques
* Guidelines for showing
* Marketing and sales tips 

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Alfalfa Hay For Small Animals

By: Stepphanie

 Photo by: bronzephoenix
Alfalfa hay is legume hay that contains more protein, digestible energy and calcium than any other forage. This hay is perfect for young herbivores and makes a perfect treat for adult herbivores.

Alfalfa Hay is a high fibre hay is a high fibre legume forage that is sometimes called the "Queen of Forages" It's different from timothy hay in its leaf, stem and root structure. Alfalfa hay is legume hay and the protein, calcium and content are higher than in grass hay. Because it is bailed at night, special care is taken. Alfalfa hay has a soft stem with leaves attached.

Alfalfa is a perfect hay to feed young animals. It contains a lot more crude protein, digestible energy and calcium levels than most other forages, also it has the fibre content needed for normal digestive functioning. Alfalfa provides the right amount of essential calcium for growing bones. Alfalfa is also a source of important materials, including phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, sulphur, iron, zinc, and selenium.

Because of its succulent taste, this alfalfa hay can be used as an appetite stimulant when an animal happens to be ill or coming out of surgery, because it is so high in fibre, a small pinch can be given as a treat.

Feeding Directions:

Growing animals (Under the age of 6 months):

Unlimited amounts plus free choice of grass hay
Alfalfa hay should only really be offered carefully to adult rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas due to the higher protein and calcium content. Many vets believe that animals prone to kidney stones, bladder stones or calcium crystals in their urine should always avoid alfalfa hay.

-Alfalfa hay can be used to help animals to gain wait, and will give a nice shine to their fur.

-Elderly animals should be fed foods that they enjoy, such as alfalfa, when considering quality of life.

-Alfalfa Hay can be used in small amounts as an appetite stimulant for thin or convalescing animals.

-Rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas under six months of age can be given alfalfa hay daily.

-After six months of age an animal should begin a gradual transition to 100% grass hays such as Timothy Hay

Burgess pet care advise that most of your small animals diet should consist of a high quality Alfalfa hay. Visit for more information today

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Hay for Rabbits

By: David Sherwood

Photo by w3ird37

Feeding rabbits Timothy hay is a great way to provide them with a low-energy dietary fiber. Timothy hay grown in the western part of the USA is often a better quality because quickly cures in the desert air so it's green.

If you feed timothy hay to your bunny be careful to not feed it too much because it is likely to cause nutritional deficiencies. Timothy hay doesn't provide enough vitamins and minerals that rabbits need to stay healthy. To support long-term health it is important to provide a balanced diet that is fortified with phosphorous, chelated minerals, and essential amino acids.
Many people have read on-line that they should feed timothy hay to their adult pet rabbit instead of alfalfa hay. However, this is based upon some common misconceptions that are not true!
For example many people have read online that alfalfa is "too high in calories" and can obesity in rabbits. This simply is not true. Although alfalfa has slightly more calories than Timothy hay it is important to understand that the calories in alfalfa are mainly from protein, which your rabbit needs to eat to be healthy.
The types of calories that can make your rabbit fat are from carbohydrates that come from grain and grain by-products. This is why adult pet rabbits will be healthier when they are fed a grain-free diet. Rabbit food that is made for "rabbits of all ages" will cause your rabbit to gain unhealthy weight because it has too many calories. This is why it is important to feed a properly balanced rabbit food that has the right protein to energy ratio. Although it isn't clearly listed on the feed label it is important to read the ingredient list and avoid rabbit food that has a lot of grain and grain by-products or soy products.
Also many people have read online that they should avoid feeding alfalfa to their rabbit because has more calcium than timothy hay. In reality the amount of calcium in hay greatly depends upon the amount of calcium that is in the soil that it was grown in. Also, hay naturally has a lot more calcium than grain! So the only way to lower the calcium content of your rabbits diet is to feed less hay and more grain... but that is definitely not recommended!
Nutritionists know that the digestible phosphorous content and the phosphorous to calcium ratio of the diet are the most important factors that influences calcium metabolism. Phosphorous is a limiting nutrient and is expensive but adding it to the diet of your rabbit is important for long-term health. Baby rabbits need a phosphorous content of around 0.6% (adult rabbits need above 0.3%).
For these reasons it is best to feed your rabbit a balanced pelleted diet that includes all of the minerals and vitamins that your rabbit needs to stay healthy. When you do you'll see a real difference in the quality of their fur coat as well as their playfulness and overall activity level.
David Sherwood has grown up raising rabbits for fun. His advanced academic and real world experience have given him extensive knowledge that will help you understand and solve many of the problems that face those who raise rabbits. To learn more about his qualifications and to get 'common sense' answers to rabbit questions, go to
To learn more about feeding rabbits hay, go to:

Article Source:

Healthy Snacks Your Rabbit Will Love

By: Lindsey Watson
Photo by jaimuima
Everyone loves a good snack every now and then! The same is true for your rabbits. A good snack can be a nutritious part of a healthy diet. It also sparks your pet's interest and gives them something to look forward to on a daily basis. Are you in search of healthy snack ideas that your rabbits will love? Use the list below to find snacks that your rabbit is sure to enjoy.
While hay should be an essential part of your pet's diet, it can also serve as a great snack throughout the day. As a snack option, choose to give your rabbit alfalfa hay as opposed to the regular timothy hay that you feed on a daily basis. The texture and nutritional value is different and this can make for a great snack for your pet.
Fresh food
Perhaps the best snacks to feed your pet are those that are fresh and that will help aid in the digestion process. Keep in mind, however, that fresh food should only be given to your rabbit 2 to 3 times a week. Why? Over feeding your rabbit with fresh food will quickly cause him to begin relying solely on this food for nutrition. Rabbit pellets should make up the majority of your rabbit's diet. Fresh food that your rabbit will love includes apples, grapes, pears, oranges, mustard greens, beets, parsley, etc. Snacks not to include in your rabbit's diet include the pits or seeds from fresh fruit. Be sure that you remove all seeds and pits before serving fresh snacks to your pet.
Fibre Rich Pellets / Nuggets
While you don't want to over feed your rabbit, an occasional snack of extra pellets won't hurt. If you can't make it to the store or don't have hay on hand but feel that you pet deserves a snack, consider giving it a few extra pellets for a snack during the day. You need to ensure though that you are serving fibre rich nuggets rather than sugary muesli, which offers no nutritional goodness to the rabbit whatsoever.
If you want to raise a healthy rabbit, snacks should be included at least 2 to 3 times a week. Keep in mind however, that rabbit that are 6 months or younger, should not be fed a large amount of fresh food. Depending on the age of your rabbit, ration snacks throughout the week while still giving your pet the food that it loves.
Feed your rabbit a healthy, nutritious and fibre rich diet by choosing The Excel Feeding Plan, quality rabbit food that is Vet approved. Visit the Burgess Pet Care website for more information today.

Article Source:

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Super Pet Rabbit Large Hi-Corner Litter Pan

Our large hi-corner litter pan is a giant version of our best selling original design. It's perfect for large ferrets, big bunnies and other pets. The large hi-corner litter pan fits into large small animal cages and it can also be used outside the cage for pets that are fully liberty trained. The pan features elevated high corners to help accommodate messy back-ups, while also preventing messes and litter from scattering outside the cage. Comes with two security locks for easy attachment to the cage. It is constructed of easy-to-clean, stain and odor resistant plastic and is available in four assorted colors. Shop here

Ware Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Bigger Pet Pan

We've had house rabbits for the last 4 years, and it was a pain to clean the cage and litter box until we stumbled across this little gem of a litter pan. Most rabbit litter pans don't include the grate, and that's the big secret with this one. It's got a nice little locking mechanism that keeps the grate on. The grate works so well because when the rabbits sit on the litter they scatter it around the cage thus making tons of mess all over the place, but since this has the grate on it they can't do that. Simple and easy, plus it's plastic and lasts through many months before needing to be replaced (mostly because it just gets gross rather than falling apart or anything). I won't buy any other litter box now.--N. Sutrich Shop here

Super Pet's Large Hi-Corner Litter Pan

Super Pet's Large Hi-Corner Litter Pan is perfect for large ferrets, big bunnies and other pets. It helps make potty training easy. The Large Hi-Corner Litter Pan fits into large animal cages and it can also be used outside of the cage for pets that are fully liberty trained. The pan features elevated high corners to help accommodate messy back-ups, while also preventing messes and litter from scattering outside the cage. Built-in hooks make attaching it to cages easy. It is constructed of easy-to-clean, stain- and odor-resistant plastic. This product comes in assorted colors - please allow us to choose for you.Shop here

Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Marchioro Usa Nora 3C Corner Litter Pan

This is an excellent solution to the problem of having litter scatter all around a litterbox for a rabbit. The litterbox is large and roomy and except for some litter that scatters and accumulates outside the front, contains everything inside, so the rabbit's urinating over the back rim is prevented as well. The top lifts off for easy cleaning and snaps back into place on a hinge. I highly recommend this litter box for all sized rabbits.--Kay J. Skvorc  Shop here

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

How to Train a Rabbit to Use a Litter Box

Did you know that rabbits can be litter-trained? Having a properly trained bunny means less mess and stress for you—and the bonus for your bunny is that she’ll get more freedom around the house.

What to Consider Before Getting Your Pet Rabbit

By:Keri Carrilo

Rabbits have been popularly kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well to indoor life, and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention.

Often people purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders under suspicion that some pet stores sell cross bred rabbits. Such a breeder who has a litter of young rabbits available for sale can be found in the newspaper classified ads listed under "Pets" or "Livestock." Some can be found through rabbit breeders' club publications or through rabbit-related magazines, which often include a breeder listing. With the advent of the Internet, many breeders advertise their stock online.

Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it can be stressful for the animal. Many pet shops nearly always carry smaller breeds of rabbit such as the Netherland dwarf, the Holland lop, and the Mini-Rex. These breeds, although smaller than 'normal' rabbits, still live long and healthy lives. A point to note is that often smaller breeds of rabbits are prone to tooth problems such as malocclusion.

Rabbit rescue organizations or a local humane society are increasingly common places to find adult rabbits, who may already be spayed or neutered and docile from handling. Though most rescued rabbits are healthy, some may require special care for health conditions or behavioral problems resulting from prior abuse.

Training and Play
Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit's cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.

Rabbits cannot learn voice commands like a dog, but can recognize different patterns of the voice. For instance, If a rabbit is disobeying, for example biting, simply make a high pitched noise, or an extremely bass noise and the message will be conveyed. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more then the words. Rabbits are intelligent, and enjoy games and toys.

It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the pet's reach). Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although they can be trained not to chew.

It is important that if a rabbit is allowed to roam in a house that it be impossible for the rabbit to chew or get into dangerous or valuable items. They do not possess the same comprehension as a dog or a cat, and often don't understand if punished physically; rather they will become scared or confused if some kind of punishment is used, as they do not see the damage they have done. If all this is taken into consideration, rabbits make excellent house pets.


Other rabbits
Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Generally fighting is a result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly, so a pet owner should not leave them together, even if they do not fight.

Because of these problems, it used to be preferred to keep rabbits caged individually. However, it is becoming common to spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together. Fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems (such as general aggression, biting or withdrawal) which may arise if rabbits are kept single.

Pairs of bonded and desexed rabbits, usually one of each gender to a pair, can often be adopted from animal shelters. These have usually already had all their major expenses taken care of (desexing) and they will rarely fight or harass each other, taking the trouble out of bonding two separate rabbits.

Guinea pigs
Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While some people have seen success with this technique, the current consensus is that rabbits should never be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs. A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. It may be unintentional or due to being startled, since the rabbit is larger and stronger so can seriously injure a guinea pig. They also have differing nutritional requirements, so it is therefore preferable that rabbits and guinea pigs are fed separately. Guinea pigs require additional Vitamin C in their diets that rabbits don't. Lack of Vitamin C may lead to scurvy.

Additionally, guinea pigs typically show very little interest in social activities necessary for the rabbit's well-being, such as grooming; this limits the intended benefit of housing the guinea pig and rabbit together in the first place.

Dogs and cats
It is generally recommended that dogs should never be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog attacking the rabbit spontaneously. Cats, on the other hand, can become close and safe potential companions if properly introduced to the rabbit and they are of at least roughly equivalent size. In fact, when the cat is introduced in a home with a resident rabbit, the rabbit sometimes will act aggressively to establish his territory and the cat, which does not have such concerns, will typically cede the point to the resident.

 - About the Author:
For tips on hairless chihuahua and deer head chihuahua, visit the Types Of Chihuahua website.

Monday, July 2, 2012

Which Pet Rabbit Will You Choose?

By: Joshu Simms

Choosing the right rabbit for you and your family can be a very exciting process. There are currently over 40 recognized breeds of rabbits. Many of the breeds have multiple varieties and colors. Rabbits range in size from 2 pounds to over 10 pounds. So the choices are very abundant.
Many breeders give different answers regarding the preferred gender for a pet rabbit. This is compounded by the individual temperament of the rabbit. Often a doe (girl rabbit) that is not spayed, can become territorial was she reaches maturity. She may nip at you when reaching for her or even her food or water dishes. Some does will eliminate that aggression when a familiar face does the feeding on a daily basis. Some does we've found to be non-aggressive, and yet others can become territorial towards everybody, but that is very rare. If you do not plan to breed your rabbit, and you want a doe, it is best to have her spayed to help reduce the chances that she may protect her den.
Bucks present a different problem all together. Bucks generally are not aggressive. However, spraying can be a problem. When the buck reaches maturity he may start to spray his urine everywhere to let the whole world know he is ready for a mate. Again, not all bucks will do this, and typically the ones that do, will only do so for a short period of time. This problem can be eliminated by having the buck neutered.
Grooming is another consideration. The wool breeds such as angoras and jersey woolies require extra work in grooming. All rabbits need a good routine of grooming by their caretaker, but the wool breeds require more time because of the nature of their fur type.
The best way to see and find out about rabbits is to attend a rabbit show. At the rabbit show you will find many breeders and most of the breeds of rabbits. To find a show near you visit our calendar page and search for a show in your state.
I would not recommend buying a rabbit without first seeing it, nor would I recommend purchasing a rabbit from a pet store. It would be in your best interest to find a breeder in your area of the breed you think you would like. Visit with that breeder. See what the conditions are in the barn. Ask if you can hold a rabbit. Watch the rabbit's reaction to their cage being opened. Rabbits that love attention, will immediately come to the door, some will even make happy grunting type noises. Other rabbits will immediately go to the back of the cage. If a rabbit moves to the back its probably not a good rabbit for you.
Most of all have fun. Enjoy your search for that perfect rabbit. There are many sizes colors and choices and finding the fit for you can be time consuming but will be very rewarding in the end.

 - About the Author:
Visit the Melon Types website to learn about cantaloupe melon and charentais melon

Easy Ways to Litter Train a Netherland Dwarf

By: Izhar

Admit it, not matter how cute a Netherland dwarf is, it will eventually get frustrating if your bunny regularly urinated all over your house. But don't worry, just like any other types of rabbits, Netherland dwarf rabbit are also known to be trainable.

Litter training your bunny will not only make it a better pets, but it can also save you from a lot of house cleaning work. Beside, it is not so expensive to litter train your bunny and you will only need a handful of things to litter train your rabbit successfully.

Things you will need:

As I mentioned above, you're only going to need a couple of things in order to litter train your rabbit. First, you going to need a litter box. Second, you will need a spot where you want your rabbit to litter and that pretty much it.

The Approach:

The first thing you got to do is simply put the litter box at the spot where you want your bunny to litter. Then, put your rabbit on the box and wait for your rabbit to litter or you can also command your rabbit to litter.

If your rabbit are doing as you command it to do, give it some reward by scratching it nose a little or simply pet your rabbit head as a way to tell your rabbit that it is doing a great job. However, you must not reward your rabbit with foods. 

If your rabbit didn't litter in the litter box as it suppose to or simply jumping out of the litter box, just let it be and train it again after a few minutes. No scolding is required since rabbit are known to be scared easily since in their natural habitat they are suppose to be the hunted animal and we don't want to make the training harder by making our own rabbit scare of us, right?.

Litter train a Netherland dwarf is pretty easy. Untrained bunny might cause you some problem with th
 - About the Author:
I'm the writer and editor of a blog about Netherland dwarf. For more tips and info regarding Netherland dwarf rabbits, feel free to visit my blog today.

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Buying a Pet Rabbit - Characteristics and Health Information

By: Moses Wright

The minute anyone thinks of a rabbit, most people will see rabbits as docile and cuddly animals. Rabbits however, do take some time to adapt and feel at ease in unfamiliar environments. With enough time and assurance provided by owners, the rabbits should adjust soon. They like human company but might respond less positively to being held.

Rabbits are more intelligent than most people thought. They can be litter trained and can even be taught little parlor tricks to amuse others. A Japanese man raised a rabbit named Oolong and it had a quaint talent for balancing miniature objects on its head while it hopped around.

There are over 50 different breeds that are recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. However there is much more varieties than that, for example Snowshoe hares are not included in the listed 50 breeds.

This is because as a professional association concerned with organizing them in fairly strict standards they have differentiated the breeds accordingly. With different features, sizes and colors specific to each breed, there are some similarities among all the rabbits irrelevant of their breeds. Rabbits belong to Lagomorphs species. Since they have constantly growing teeth they are often misunderstood as rodents.

Rabbits breed very fast and tend to have a high number of offspring. They live up to 10 years and mature in about 6 months and start breeding immediately. This is because they had survived in the wild being prey to a lot of predations. They have an innate instinct to protect themselves and this has helped in their survival over thoussands of years. Their gestation period is as little as a month and they produce a lot of kits - rabbit babies.

Unlike other mammals whose teeth shift but do not grow after adulthood, rabbit's teeth keep growing through out their lives, To control the growth of the teeth, they keep chewing on anything and everything possible. That could be a problem for rabbit owners since they damage the furniture and other materials in the house. The most common or even favorite thing for the rabbits is the shoe. This problem can be handled by consciously keeping the shoes out of reach.

Rabbit proofing the furniture at home helps to prevent the furniture from further damages. Owners should provide their rabbits with lot of chewable toys available in pet shops to keep them from exploring and chewing other items in the house. Another natural instinct of rabbit is digging because they live in burrows in the wild. This can become and issue with domestic pets, as they will dig holes in the garden and spoil the foliage.

Their emotions can be adversely affected easily. Due to stress, rabbits can suffer from a number of medical afflicitons. They can be easily disturbed with loud noises and screaming. Children may not be aware that rabbits dislike to have their ears played with. They could even bite children if they are stressed.

Rabbits have a vision of close to 360 degrees to afford them a good view of possible predators. However, they do have a blind spot under their face that is approximately about 10 degrees. So, they could shift their heads frequently, and try to gauge the distance of objects through looking at the objects in different perspectives.

Rabbits need regular grooming. Though they are clean animals naturally, it is necessary to brush them often to avoid accumulation of fur balls in the intestine.

With more and more people choosing rabbits as their pets, it is clear that these small animals are gaining popularity and make good companions who amuse their owners well.


Moses Wright is a an experience dog lover with 3 beautiful dogs. He created a pet problems and solutions site to help fellow pet owners stop their pet behavior problems. You can get more information about rabbit problems and solutions at his site.

Taking Care of Pregnant and Baby Rabbits


Many pet rabbit owners had few successes in rearing baby rabbits. The mortality percentage of newborn rabbits are altitudinous but there are things that pet rabbit owners could do to make better the survival chances of the baby rabbits.

Before we discuss further into the topics of rabbit breedings, maternity and baby rabbits, let's get the language right. A female rabbit is known as a doe. Weaning refers to separating the preteenl rabbits from the doe. 

Does may conceal their pregnancy quite fine. Thus, yet veteran vet sometimes made mistakes in assessing if a female rabbit is pregnant. A female rabbit that is pregnant do not alter its conduct much. As rabbits are at the lowest of the food chain, it is natural for rabbits to procreate as ofttimes as possible to assure their survival and perpetuating of the rabbits.

Depending on the breed of the rabbit, a female rabbit is sexually mature at the age of 6 months. Some rabbit breed are sexually matured at 9 months. 

One of the more reliable way to check if your female rabbit is pregnant is that she may start rejecting advances initiated by the buck. The maternity timeframe of the rabbit is around 31 days. The foetus in the female rabbit's abdomen feels similar marble.

Female rabbits may also appear for suited places such as interior of well hidden card-boxes. The female rabbit may produce a litter of 7 to 13 kits. Grown rabbits has a scent which shall attract predator animals, baby rabbits do not. That is why the female rabbit feed the baby rabbits only once or twice a day.

Fresh born baby rabbits do not have fur on their bodies and their eyes are closed. Place the fresh born baby rabbits on the towel. If the doe has not make a suitable nest for her baby rabbits, you may create one using packing of cardboard box. 

Hays that had excrement will get musty and is bad to be made as litter for the baby rabbits. 

The buck should be unconnected from the both the doe and the newly born baby rabbits. It is not likely that he shall hurt the baby rabbit but it shall improve the survival chances of the baby rabbits. The doe will ordinarily feed the new born baby rabbits during dusk or at dawn. It is crucial to give the doe the moment to be alone with her baby rabbits during nursing time. If humans are present, the doe may appear distressed and she may not feed the baby rabbits. 

If you notice that the baby rabbits have plump tummies and are warm, then possible they have been getting enough nutrition from the doe's milk.

Suitable milk substitute for baby rabbits involve those formulated from dog's and cat's milk. As the baby rabbits are really young, they are not good at sucking milk from the pet feeding bottle. The ) {duration for the whole litter of baby rabbits may take one hour at first. The baby rabbits shall open their eyes and at 10 days old and begin taking solid food at 21 days old.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

How to Know If Your Rabbit Is Pregnant?

By: John Swell

If you have a rabbit at home and see her mostly in a cage, then there are chances that she is pregnant! Generally, when a rabbit starts plucking fur from her coat, then that's an indication that she might be preparing to give birth.
Now to get a little understanding of how to know whether a rabbit is pregnant or not, follow the steps:
Lightly press the abdomen of the rabbit.
The rabbits are soft animals and need to be cared well. To see whether the rabbit is pregnant, press its abdomen with your fingers lightly. A bulge can be detected in a rabbit's belly between 10 to 15 days of its pregnancy.
If you find a slight lump or a bulge, then there are chances of your rabbit being pregnant.
She might aloof herself!
One of the first signs of a pregnant rabbit is that she might aloof herself. She might start staying in her cage, also showing a bit of detachment. A pregnant rabbit also prefers to take more rest and move little.
During this time, the rabbits start searching for hay to make their own nest.
The rabbit during her pregnancy days avoids getting pampered or stroked.
Rabbit putting on weight!
If you haven't detected the bulge, then a rabbit getting fatter from the lower part of the body is an indication of her pregnancy.
Usually, a rabbit in the 3rd week of her pregnancy will show a prominent bulge. This means that your rabbit is going to deliver soon.
The pregnancy phase of a rabbit lasts for a month. This is a time when it can be finally understood that a rabbit is going to give birth to kits.
However, it must also be borne in mind that a rabbit might have false pregnancies as well. Here the rabbit might show the same signs as during the pregnancy stage, but then it's false. Due to hormonal changes within a rabbit, she might put on weight or behave differently.
Mostly the pregnancy stage of a rabbit is known by detecting the bulge or a lump under its belly. One can feel the belly of a pregnant rabbit by palpating his/her fingers.
Since we all know, rabbits are sensitive and soft animals, they need to be adored and cared for in a proper way. During their pregnancy stage, they also undergo mood swings or feel cranky. Care should be given at this stage for their development.
Rabbits like humans need proteins, vitamins and minerals to stay healthy. Adequate food and water has to be given to them. This includes fresh vegetables and fruits, like carrot leaves, mint leaves, cilantro, etc.
A pregnant rabbit has to be fed with nutritious food and provided with lots of water.
If there are any changes in the eating habit of a rabbit, then your rabbit needs to be taken to a vet. Also during the pregnancy stage, a vet can be of great help to your rabbit if there are any problems.
Knowing about domestic rabbit breeds can be a worthy experience for you and your family also getting know how to share pictures of rabbits on Pinterest can be a real fun of all time. To know more, visit today.

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Monday, April 23, 2012

Relaxing a Rabbit Videos

This video will show rabbit care and how to relax your rabbit. Handling a rabbit on any regular basis is sure to have results over time, so even the novice rabbit owner can learn basic steps to be able to massage their rabbit at home.

Kennel-aire "A" Frame Bunny House

The Kennel-aire "A" Frame Bunny Home is designed to give your pet the ultimate in safety and comfort. Comes with durable plastic tray for easy clean-up and 4 casters for easy mobility. Shop here

Natura Rabbit Lodge with Attic (XL)

TRIXIE’s Natura Rabbit Lodge with Attic (XL) is ideal for groups of small animals. Solid wood construction, finest materials, and glazed pine finish mean this attractive hutch will endure years of use with very little maintenance. The two-story design allows your pet to roam inside and outside, upstairs and downstairs, in the sun or in the shade for ideal comfort. However, the non-slip ramp and interior lockable hatch doors give the owner options to restrict access as needed. The pitched roof has a special weatherproof coating and the panels can be opened from the top. The multi function attic offers an enclosed space for a small animal accessible through an exterior sliding door, as well as space for extra storage with removable floors. For easy maintenance, we have included seven doors as well as two plastic pull-out trays. The durable, powder-coated metal lattice will help keep your pet safe while keeping out unwanted visitors, and the close mesh (0.8 in/2 cm) design makes it suitable for breeding. Wood panel at the back offers additional protection from the elements. Suitable for a group of small animals such as rabbits and guinea pigs. Winter and weatherproof. Quick and easy assembly. One year warranty. Dimension: 53 x 45 x 44 inches. Weight: 111 lbs. Color: glazed pine. Please note: water bottle and bowl in picture are not included. See more

Rabbit Housing Guide Videos

This video will talk about rabbit care and proper housing for a rabbit.

Mini Activity Zone Rabbit Toy

The Mini Activity Zone is one of our best selling Toys! Great for rabbits up to 3 lbs! Your bunny will play on top of it, hide under, and play with all the toys. Can be put in your bunnies enclosure or kept in the living room as "bunny furniture"! Approx 9" wide, 9" deep, 8" high. Shop here

"The Tree" Pet Rabbit Toy

This free standing rabbit toy is perfect for the bunny that always has free range! No wires or hangers needed. Also works well in the rabbits enclosure. All the small toy pieces and sisal are very chewable for your rabbit! Shop here

WARE Farmer's Market Nature's House for Rabbits

WARE Farmer's Market Nature's House for RabbitsOur WARE Farmer's Market Nature's House for Rabbits is made of natural sun dried grass and is safe for your rabbit to chew. Produced from a renewable source, from Mother Nature's garden. This fun and chewable refuge is also great for guinea pigs, chinchillas, pet rats and other small animals. This cozy hideout protects sensitive paws from wire bottom cages and can be used inside or outside of the cage. Shop here

Bunny Proofing Your Home Videos

This video will show rabbit care and how to bunny proof your home. Similar to the requirements parents might face in child proofing their home, the same can be said for bunny proofing one's home.

Monday, March 19, 2012

How to Prevent and Treat Digestive Disorders in Rabbit

If a rabbit appears unable to eat, first look at its mouth to see if the incisor teeth are overgrown, giving rise to the condition known as dental malocclusion or 'buck teeth'. Your veterinarian will cut the teeth back for you, although it is possible to carry out this task yourself. First obtain a pair of bone clippers -scissors are not really suitable- and ask someone to hold the rabbit for you on a table or similar level surface. Then pry open the mouth and, holding the jaws, clip the teeth. Do not be tempted to cut the teeth too short; simply remove the twisted area of growth. Offering chewing blocks, or even dried crusts of bread, may help to slow down growth of the incisors, but within a few weeks you will almost certainly need to clip the teeth again.

Dribbling of saliva from the mouth, known as 'slobbers', may also be caused by a dental problem. The most noticeable sign is likely to be an area of wet fur at the comer of the mouth, with possible swelling around the side of the face if a tooth abscess is the cause of the complaint. A closer veterinary examination will be essential for this problem, and the rabbit may have to be anesthetized. Using modem drugs, this is a relatively safe procedure, as it is for guinea pigs.

Diarrhea and Enteritis in Rabbit

While the effects of drugs are well studied in rabbits, much work is still required to discover why these animals appear so susceptible to diarrhea. The problem is usually complex, involving more than one infectious agent. Yet it does appear that stress of any kind is significant, and that young animals are most at risk.

The signs of mucoid enteritis will typically be seen in rabbits up to about five months of age, with a peak likely around the two to three month period. Affected animals lose their appetites and grow listless. Diarrhea, often clear and jelly-like, rapidly becomes apparent, together with an accompanying high level of water consumption. An accumulation of gas in the abdomen may give rise to the characteristic swelling described as bloat, and death will occur within about a week of the symptoms first appearing. Where large numbers of rabbits are at risk, the use of medicated foods may be advisable through this crucial period. Once the disease does occur, however, the likelihood of recovery is relatively slight; and even if they do survive, affected individuals may remain stunted.

Part of the difficulty with treatment is that there appears to be no single cause of mucoid enteritis. Bacteria, including members of the costridial group, are known to be involved in most cases. In addition, Bacillus piliformis, which is responsible for Tyzzer's Disease, can be identified in cases of mucoid enteritis. Tyzzer's Disease is recognized as a separate ailment affecting even younger rabbits, normally about six weeks old. It invariably proves fatal at this stage, with symptoms similar to mucoid enteritis.

If rabbits do die from enteritis of any kind, thoroughly clean and disinfect their quarters to minimize the risk of spreading the disease. Also dispose of their bedding, preferably by burning it. When faced with a sudden, explosive outbreak of this problem, consult a veterinarian without delay. It will be possible to carry out post-mortems, and from the results of these plus other tests, notably those to find the bacteria concerned, it may be feasible to treat surviving stock.

Derrick Anderson - About the Author: offers a wire mesh indoor rabbit cage and high quality guinea pig cages for your pets.

Rabbit Illness - What Are The Signs You Should Look Out For When Raising Rabbits

The main reason why you need to widen your gaze regarding rabbit illness is because they can lead to complications and even death. Pay close attention to your pet if you must!
Common Signs of Rabbit Illness

- Loss of Appetite - This is the most common sign that there is something wrong with your pet. No matter how enticing and attractive you make its food look like it just won't eat. In some cases if the rabbit is really sick it won't even take a small sip of water.

- Irritability - Irritability among animals is exhibited through running away when you want to pet or cuddle them. Sometimes this includes biting and screaming.
Ads by Google - Always Sleeping - A sick animal is always resting. You'll notice that it would rather sleep than eat or run around.

- Lack of Energy - you'll also notice that the rabbit does not hop around too much. It's either asleep or resting in one corner. It looks tired even though it's always sleeping.

- Fever - Animals with fever exhibit high temperature. You don't need to take a thermometer to check this. You will notice a rise in temperature when you pick the animal up. Its body is warmer or hotter than usual.

Dangerous Signs of Rabbit Illness

- Vomiting - aside from loss of appetite. Look for signs that your rabbit vomited. Check out its hutch for anything.- No litter droppings and or Diarrhea- Seems in pain when hopping or refuses to hop around. - Swollen hind leg - This can be a serious sign of injury, which is indicative of fracture.

What you can do about it

First thing to do is give your rabbit some fluids. Rabbits are generally gentle creatures so you don't have to worry about biting and scratching. Use a dropper to so the rabbit won't be overwhelmed. Don't force your rabbit you might cause more harm to him than help. Let it rest while you observe for more signs of Rabbit Illness. Give it fluid from time to time. If this doesn't work don't wait for a few days before you take it to the vet. Take the rabbit to a pet clinic immediately especially if you noticed signs of injury. The vet will prescribe medications for your rabbit which you need to religiously give your bunny. Rabbit illness doesn't usually last long; it often takes about half a day or the whole day at most before it starts to eat again.

Gail Paterson - About the Author:
Learn step by step the right way of keeping rabbits the first time and avoid having to make painful mistakes that beginner rabbit owner's are prone too. Separate yourself from the average rabbit owner who will end up harming their rabbits without knowing it and you could learn more tips on raising rabbits from the guide here: