How To Choose The Right Pet Rabbit?

By: Orion Spacey

Photo: fykusuke-pon

Want an excellent pet that is cute, lovable and wouldn't grow from a lovely little ball of fur to a 100 pound beast?In that case consider a rabbit!Here are just a number of reasons for you to consider a rabbit for a pet.

1) Countless alternativesThere are 45 various breeds of rabbits acknowledged through the US Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). Do you need a small rabbit? Think about a Netherland Dwarf, Polish or Jersey Wooly.Are you interested in a big rabbit? In that case choose a Flemish Giant that can weigh up to 20 pounds.Will you be interested in the "lop" eared rabbits? The Holland Lop is usually a well-liked choice due to its smaller size, although you can too look at a Mini Lop, French Lop, American Fuzzy Lop and also an English Lop. An English Lop's ears could be about 24 inches long.Are you particular about color? Rabbits come in a variety of colours. You are able to undoubtedly find one or more colors that will appeal to your tastes!Are you interested in a rabbit with plenty of fur? Therefore decide on one of the Angora breeds, or a Jersey Wooly. Although be prepared to spend more time grooming the rabbit!So the choices are endless, for many of us, the choices are hard. Like the potato chip commercial says, "You aren't able to decide on just one"!

2) Rabbits are usually quietIt is guaranteed: You will never have neighbours calling you to quiet down your rabbit. It just would not happen.

3) Rabbits can live indoors or outdoorsObviously, you can find rabbits that live in the wild, but they can adjust to living inside as well.Those that keep rabbits outside, you must ensure they've got enough shelter and are well-protected from predators. These include the neighborhood dogs and cats which could wander through your backyard.They should be protected from the elements and have lots of ventilation. At what time hot weather comes, you have to take special steps and keep your rabbit safe since warm weather bothers them a lot more than cold weather.Most people keep their rabbits inside, and that's fine as well. Should you keep your rabbit inside, you can expect to need to spend some time preparing your home for your new friend.You'll want to keep electrical cables away from your rabbit. Rabbits love to chew, and those wires are tempting...and lethal.Rabbits can be litter box trained, and also are very clean pets. As a result feel free to keep them indoors if this is what you want to do.

4) Rabbits are enjoyable to have aroundJust watching them play in their cages is great fun, but let them out, hold them and pet them, and you'll be hooked!

5) Rabbits are enormously adorableHave you ever seen an ugly rabbit?With rabbits, the babies are incredibly cute and adorable, and they stay cute and adorable when they grow up.Now I like dogs, but so many of them are cute as puppies, then grow in to huge ugly dogs.This won't happen with rabbits. They will stay cute their entire lifetime.

6) They usually are low cost to keepRabbits are a low cost pet. Shots at the veterinarian are not needed and you can easily take care of your rabbit yourself. If you take care of your rabbit properly, there will be no need to go to a veterinarian at all.Thus, choose a rabbit for your very own to take home and adore today!

Orion Spacey - About the Author:
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How To Litter Box Train Your Bunny Rabbit

By: Deborah M

Are you serious? What do you mean litter box train your bunny rabbit? What would ever make a bunny rabbit search out a litter box and do his deed there? Habit...that's what!

I have raised several “house bunnies” for pets and I've trained them all to use a litter box. The process is very simple but you have to be consistent. We keep our rabbits in the laundry room in a wire cage that is 5 feet long, 2 feet wide and 1 foot tall. The cage is two story with a ramp so each area has the previous mentioned dimensions.. The rabbit enjoys staying in the cage but likes to come out and explore, especially if someone comes in the room. He doesn't much like tile floor and seems to be much more agile and comfortable with an area rug to hop on.

First of all, when I first bring the rabbit home I hold it incessantly. It will be necessary to take him out of his cage because he won't come out on his own at this point. Later on you won't want to invade his space but for now, if you don't assert yourself, he will never come to you.

Anyway, I pick him up, pet him, cuddle him, set him in my lap, pick him back up, give him kisses and then put him back down. I repeat this process several times and talk to him all the while. It is imperative that the rabbit gets used to human contact so he doesn't become frightened when you come around. Once the rabbit is used to being around you, he will feel more free to come out of his cage on his own and explore the area.

Eventually, the rabbit will come out for longer periods of time. When he does, he may do number one or number two on the floor or carpet. I use a tissue or paper towel to wipe this up. (Don't put chemicals in the litter box. Dab up the mess, put it in the box and then go back and clean with chemicals). I immediately place the tissue or paper towl in the litter box I have set up for the rabbit. (I just use a small litter box that has a top with a front entrance hole. Kitty litter is okay for the rabbit. The litter box should be placed next to the rabbit's cage and always remain in the same place). Next, I pick the rabbit up and place him in the litter box through the front hole entrance. He will usually dig around in here and stay for a few minutes. I have no idea what he's doing in there but when he hops out, I take the lid off and look inside. Rabbit Raisins! What do you know. He actually dropped some in there. Woo-hoo! Leave the raisins inside the litter box. This will be a clue for him the next time he goes in there.

Let the rabbit go back into his cage for while. After a short rest, you must repeat this same process. Take him out (if he doesn't come out...and he probably still won't this soon) and let him play around and wait until he has an accident. Clean it up and place it in the little box. Again, put the rabbit back into the litter box. He will do his business and hop on out. I don't leave the soiled paper towel or tissue for more than one or two days because you are constantly adding more.
Being consistent with the process will have your rabbit eventually seeking out the litter box on his own. It is a lot easier cleaning out the litter box than the tray from the bottom of the cage. At night, I always shut the door to the rabbit cage because they are nocturnal little creatures and I don't want them chewing cords or furniture and getting into mischief while I sleep. Anyway, the first thing in the morning I open the door to the cage and he immediately comes out and hops into the litter box. Just like clockwork. Amazing!

Deborah M - About the Author:
Now that you know I am into animals, I want to share a place with you that will meet all your animal supplies needs. PetCareRX has products for dogs, cats, birds, reptiles and rodents (even my bunny rabbit). They have great prices on all their products including Hartguard and Frontline. They give Pet Points (to accumulate and use), PetBlogs, Live Pet Help and Pet Stories that you can submit. Check out this site. You won't be disappointed.http://www.debsmarket.info

How To Litter Train Your Pet Rabbit

By: DChick

If you own a rabbit and aren't quite sure what to do with him or her why not train him. I will show you step by step how to litter train your pet rabbit. Within a few weeks, your rabbit will be trained to use a litter box both in and out of his cage. Don't worry, its not that hard to do, I did it with my six year old daughter.

Here are three things you should do before you start to actually train your rabbit.

1) Make sure you have a proper cage for your rabbit: His cage should be big enough for him to have a "living" area and a "potty" area.
2)Let your rabbit exercise everyday. You should have your rabbit out to exercise 1-2 times a day for 30-60 minutes.
3) Feed your rabbit You should feed your rabbit a combination of fruits, vegetables and dry food three times a day.You will find that your rabbit has one or two favorite treats which you will use when you begin to train him. Ok now that you have spent a some time getting to know your rabbit and have become friends its time to start training.

Litter Training Your Rabbit This should be the first thing you teach your rabbit to do. It is a fairly easy task to do plus it will eliminate having to clean up after him while you are training himother commands. You will need a litterpan about 4 inches high and either hay or nonclumping rabbit litter to put in the litter box. DO NOT use regular cat litter. The dust can cause respiratory problems for your rabbit. Place the litter box in the room where you have been letting him exercise. Remove some "rabbit pebbles" from the bottom of your rabbits cage and place them in the litter box. Put your rabbit in the litter box and use a command like "rabbits name, go pebbles" or "rabbits name, go potty ". Don't worry if your rabbit hops out of the box, let him hop around for 10 minutes then place him back in the box and repeat the command. When you see your rabbit go potty in the box, praise him by scratching his nose or stroking his head and say "good rabbits name" or good boy/girl". DO NOT give your rabbit a treat for going potty. Do this everyday for a week. By the end of the week your rabbit should hop in the pan and go potty whenever you have him out of his cage.

Having Fun In Rabbit Runs

By: William F. Gabriel



Rabbits are fine creatures to have as pets. Any loving pet owner would want to provide for the animals’ basic needs. Aside from food, drink, and shelter, rabbits need to exercise too. Otherwise their muscles atrophy and they lose energy and immune system strength. In the end, exercise can only do good for your pet bunnies. But how do you let them get their exercise? You can’t exactly leave them in the open to frolic as they wish – they might get hurt! That is why we have rabbit runs!

Rabbit runs are large enclosures for rabbits. Unlike hutches or cages, these have open bottoms, such that the ground is open. It does have walls and a roof to keep the rabbits from getting out or predators from getting in. After all, just because they are your pets does not mean that the rabbits’ natural predators, like foxes, will stay away.

These structures provide several advantages over the standard rabbit cage or hutch, but they also have some weaknesses. Note for example that the lack of a bottom means that the unit cannot be lifted up with the rabbit inside. Additionally, the lack of a floor suspended above the floor means that feces and urine are in easy reach, making hygiene a bit of a problem.
On the other hand, rabbit runs are wonderful additions. They give your rabbit the freedom to run and play in a spacious yet secured environment. The best place to use these runs is outdoors, on the grass. Your pets can enjoy the natural feeling of a grass surface while getting the sunshine, air, and exercise they need to stay healthy and happy.

Some runs are made to be collapsible, making them easy to store when not in use. This is because runs are not the best for keeping rabbits, and are at best used occasionally. If you want to keep your rabbit safe, then indoor cages or hutches are still the way to go. That way they are protected from harsh weather conditions as well as predators.

The construction of rabbit runs varies. At the very basic level, you can have a circle of wire mesh, staked into the ground and covered with some fine mesh. This is easy to make but is not easy to put away, nor does it provide much protection. You can buy or make wood-reinforced wire-enclosed runs, which provide good protection, but you might experience wood rot if you are not careful with it. Lastly, there are rabbit runs made of jointed metal cage panels. These make assembly simple and quick, and also afford you very good protection for your rabbits. Of course, prices will vary depending on the type and quality of the product you choose. Good accessories to include in these runs are drinking water bottles and shaded areas for cooling off.

A rabbit run is safe, cost-effective, and a great addition to any pet rabbit owner’s lineup. Choose one today, and give your pets the freedom to run and play in a protected environment!

About the author:
William F. Gabriel is a Senior Marketing Manager on kitchen improvements. Through his articles, he gives practical tips on choosing the rabbit runs and rabbit run for your pet.

Rabbits Diet: Is Your Rabbit Eating Right?

By: Hagar Lagarto

The typical diet for a pet rabbit consists of water, hay, pellets, fresh vegetables, and its own caecal pellets. Fruit and other treats are given only in very limited quantities, as they can cause obesity in a rabbit. Rabbits require a constant water supply as they dehydrate quickly.
Most sources recommend 80% of the diet should be Timothy hay or another grass hay. Too many vegetables in a rabbit's diet typically leads to diarrhea and other digestive problems.

Pellets
Rabbits are generally fed a pelleted feed available from pet stores, supermarkets, and farm suppliers. Pellets were originally designed for rabbit breeders for the purpose of providing as much food energy and vitamins as inexpensively as possible. This is optimal when the rabbits are being bred for food or for experimentation.

Most sources recommend a minimum of 18% fiber, low protein (14-15%), and less than 1% calcium. Depending on the amount of vegetables available, an adult rabbit should be given between 20 ml to 40 ml per kilogram body weight daily. Pre-adolescent and adolescent rabbits (7 months and younger) can be given as much pelleted diet as they can consume, although additional vegetables are preferable to additional pellets. An older rabbit (over six years) can be given more pellets if they are having difficulty maintaining a steady body weight. Timothy hay-based pellets are great for rabbits that have stopped growing and do not need to gain weight. Alfalfa-based pellets are best only for young, growing rabbits or older rabbits who are under-weight.

Hay
Hay is essential for the health of all rabbits. A steady supply of hay will help prevent gastrointestinal stasis and other digestive tract problems in rabbits. Additionally, it provides a number of necessary vitamins and minerals at a low food energy cost. Rabbits enjoy chewing on hay, and always having hay available for the rabbit may reduce its tendency to chew on other items. Timothy hay and other grass hays are considered the healthiest to provide the rabbit. As a persistently high blood calcium level can prove harmful to the rabbit, hays such as alfalfa and clover hay should be avoided. Alfalfa is also relatively high in food energy, and a constant diet of it can cause obesity in rabbits.

Treats
Treats are unhealthy in large quantities for rabbits, just as they are for humans. Most treats sold in pet stores are filled with sugar and high food energy carbohydrates. If an owner is determined to feed the rabbit treats, the best treat to provide it with is fruit.

Acceptable fruits (seeds and pits MUST be removed): Banana, Mango, Pineapple, Peach, Apple, Kiwi, Berries, Orange and other citrus fruits.

Pineapple, mango, and papaya all contain a natural enzyme which is thought to reduce hairballs.
Fruits or other treats must be given in moderation, as rabbits easily become overweight and suffer health problems. Their diet should consist of no more than half a tablespoon of fruits or treats per day.

However, fresh fruits should not be given to rabbits under the age of 4 months because their digestive systems are not always developed enough to handle the fruit. It can cause enteritis that causes death within 48 hours.

While a common myth that rabbits should be given lettuce, this is not a good idea because it contains little to no nutritional value for the rabbit and again can cause enteritis which leads to a quick death.

Caecal pellets
Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eat some of his feces. These are called cecal pellets, and are a vital part of his diet. Caecal pellets are soft, smelly, clumpy feces, and are a rabbit's only supply of Vitamin B12. Due to the design of the rabbit's digestive system, they cannot extract some vitamins and minerals directly from their food. At the end of their digestive system is an area called the caecum where cellulose and other plant fibers are broken down and ferment. After they have been broken down and passed, a rabbit's digestive system can finally extract the vitamins from them.